Deoksugung : The Korean Royal Palace in Seoul Mixed with Tradition and Modern
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| Inside of Deoksugung with autumn leaves. |
It is unique that there are Western and modern structures inside of this traditional palace. Most of structures were rebuilt in between the late 19th and the early 20th century. I am not a person lived in the era, but I can see through the palace that Korea(or Joseon) was in the turbulent time struggling for surviving and independence from the world powers.
1. History of Deoksugung
Deoksugung was established in 1593 by remodeling a royal family’s residence as a temporary palace for King Seonjo who returned from fleeing during the war begun by Japanese invasion in 1592. Since Ganghaegun, the successor of King Seonjo, moved to Changdeokgung, Deoksugung had not served well as a royal palace, until 1895 when King Gojong returned from the refuge in the Russian embassy while being threatened by Japan.
King Gojong proclaimed Joseon the Daehan Empire and himself the emperor at Deoksugung in 1897. But later he dethroned by Japan and was forced to hand over throne to Sunjong in 1907. And he died at Deoksugung in 1919. His sudden death was questionable, which triggered the March 1st Independence Movement(Samil Undong, 삼일운동). That is the origin of The March 1st Independence Movement Day(Samil-jeol, 삼일절), one of the most important Korean national holidays.
During the Japanese occupation, many parts of the palace were burned and destroyed. After the Korean War, it started to be restored and the restoration is still going on.
2. Location of Deoksugung
Like other four royal palaces, Deoksugung is located in one of the busiest downtown in Seoul. The palace is on Sejongdaero, which is the perfect place to access other big downtowns and tourism spots in Seoul. Even you can get some places, such as Gwanghwamun, where Gyeongbokgung is, Namdaemun, Myeongdong, from Deoksugung by walk.
Also top hotels including Plaza, Westin Josun Seoul and Lotte Hotel are right by the palace. Not to mention convenient public transportation infra around the palace.
It is quite close to Seoul Station, so if you have a plan to travel to other province by KTX from Seoul Station, you can add half-day or shorter trip of Deoksugung in your itinerary. Deoksugung tour in morning and shopping at Namdaemun Market or Myeongdong afternoon would also be a good option for one day in Seoul. Otherwise you can set tour of two or three palaces in a row in your tour plan like Deoksugung, then Gyeonghuigung and then Gyeongbokgung.
3. Attractions of Deoksugung
I can say everywhere in the palace is beautiful. Especially in this autumn season, red and yellow leaves are harmonizing with the traditional beauty of the structures, so that I couldn’t stop taking pictures.
But here I introduce you representative attractions in Deoksugung.
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| Junghwamun and Junghwajeon of Deoksugung. |
(1) Junghwajeon
Junghwajeon(중화전) is the main hall of the palace where the king had meetings with officials and foreign ambassadors, which was newly built after Gojong returned from the refuge in the Russian embassy.
Originally it was a two-story building, but once it was destroyed by fire, it was restored as an one-story building.
It is not that big hall as much as Geunjeongjeon of Gyeongbokgung, but has beauty of grace. I think inside of the hall is more beautiful of Gyeongbokgung. Junghwamun(중화문), the gate is in front of Junghwajeon. To see Junghwajeon through Junghwamun is quite picturesque. You can get a great picture with these structures and gardens around them.
The background of the Korean TV drama, Mr. Sunshine(staring Lee Byeong-heon and Kim Tae-ri, streaming on Netflix) is King Gojong’s era, so you can see Junghwajeon on the TV show from time to time.
Junghwajeon and Junghwamun, both were designated as the national treasures by the government.
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| Seokeodang of Deoksugung. |
(2) Seokeodang
Seokeodang(석어당) is quite outstanding among buildings in the palace, with its humble looking. Other buildings have colorful roofs, but it doesn’t. In Korean’s point of view, to me, it looks just an ordinary nobleman’s residence, not a royal palace thing. That’s why I love it.
It was Seonjo’s residence after he returned from fleeing during Imjin War begun by Japanese invasion in 1592. And he died there in 1608. Besides, other bad things happened in this royal residence. For example, King Seonjo’s queen, Inmok was confined there by Gwanghaegun, the successor of King Seonjo for ten years. After Gwanghaegun was overthrown by King Injo, Queen Inmok made Gwanghaegun kneel before her and rebuked him. Gwanghaegun was mostly known for a tyrant before, but present generations’ evaluation about Gwanghaegun has been changed. I feel sad that Gwanghaegun ended up like that with the destiny against his efforts as a king.
It is the only two-story building among traditional structures in the palace. It was also destroyed by fire in 1904 and restored in the same year.
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| Seokjojeon of Deoksugung. |
(3) Seokjojeon
Seokjojeon(석조전) is s representative European styled building in the palace, which was built in 1910. The architect was the English man, Harding.
Gojong met foreign diplomats there. He might want some modern Western buildings in the palace for showing foreign powers his efforts to make Korea modernized and strengthened like them. This is just my opinion, but I can feel how he struggled to survive in the global turmoil.
After independence from Japan in 1945, this building was used for the Joint American-Soviet Commission until the outbreak of the Korean War, which means that was the starting point the Korean peninsular was divided in half.
It is a beautiful building. Not easy for the disabled to access all parts of the building though. There is an elevator but still you need help from staff. So we didn’t enter the building but just walked around the corridor. In spring and summer the fountain view is so beautiful with its green garden.
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| Changing Ceremony of the Royal Guards at the Gate of Deoksugung. |
(4) Changing Ceremony of the Royal Guards
Like Gyeongbokgung, Changing Ceremony of the Royal Guards is held at the main gate of the palace twice a day, 11:00 am and 2:00 pm. It is subject to weather or other situation.
They are not real royal guards. It is the reenacted performance of the ceremony of changing the guards in Joseon Dynasty. Their performance with costume and Korean traditional musical instruments was very impressive. It was first time for me to see and listen to the Korean traditional musical instruments for royal events in person.
You don’t need a ticket to see this ceremony, because it is held outside of the palace. When it started, people on the street stopped walking, came around the spot and watched the ceremony. So if you have a chance to be Deoksugung area at the time of the ceremony, don’t miss it.
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| Deoksugung Stone-wall Road. |
(5) Deoksugung Stone-wall Road
This sidewalk along outside wall of the palace, called Deoksugung Doldamgil(덕수궁 돌담길), aka Jeongdonggil(정동길) — actually Deoksugung Doldamgil is included in Jeondonggil — is so hot spot. First of all, this street is so pretty, because of the wall. It is not that busy and crowded. Even though it is located in the middle of the big downtown in Seoul, the street is so peaceful that it is good for couples and families to walk slowly hand in hand or holding coffee. The palace wall and street trees make you take a photo with your loved one.
This street is a resting site for workers from near offices during lunch time in weekdays. Some people do busking on the street. Like I said Deoksugung is in people’s daily lives.
And even the street has no vehicle time. Cars are not allowed to pass the road from 11:00 to 14:00 in weekdays, from 10:00 to 18:00 on Saturdays and national holidays, and from 12:00 to 18:00 on Sundays. It is a good policy, I think.
4. How to Get Deoksugung
Deoksugung is right in front of Exit No. 1 or 2 of City Hall Subway Station on Line No. 1 or 2 of Seoul Metro. City Hall Station is a transfer station.
5. Opening Hours and Admission
9:00 - 21:00 (Last admission is at 20:00).
Every Monday is off day.
1,000 won per an adult(800 won for a group of 10 people or more).
500 won per a kid between age of 7 and 18(400 won for a group of 10 people or more).
Age 6 or under, 65 and above is free.
Like Gyeongbokgung, those wearing hanbok, the Korean traditional clothing, can enter the palace free.
On the last Wednesday of every month, the Culture Day, which is designated by the government, admission is totally free.
6. Itineraries of A Half-Day Trip to Deoksugung Including Breakfast, Lunch and Dessert.
This itinerary we suggest is the same as we literally did Deoksugung tour on 20th November 2022.
- 9:00 am Having Breakfast at Starbucks Hwangudan Branch
We ate a bagel sandwich, a banana, mushroom soup and coffee.
- 9:40 am Tour of Deoksugung
- 11:00 am Watching Changing Ceremony of the Royal Guards
- 11:10 am Walking Deoksugung Stone-wall Road and Jeongdonggil
We did walking and stopping to take photos, stuff like that, and visited other attractions such as Jeongdong Theather and the old site of Russian Embassy where Gojong stayed, on the way to the restaurant for lunch. The total distance of Jeongdonggil is around 850 meters.
- 12:00 pm Having Lunch at Hakgyoap Bunsik on the end of Jeongdonggil
We ate tteokbokki, fried dumplings, an old-fashioned Korean lunch box at this old fashioned restaurant.
- 12:50 pm Having Dessert at Doldamkong and Liege Waffle
We had banana crepe and coffee at Doldamkong and takeout of a cinnamon waffle and a blueberry cream cheese waffle at Liege Waffle, one of top three dessert shops in Seoul.
Information about each restaurant and cafe in detail is here. https://tnb4earlybirds.blogspot.com/2022/11/recommendation-of-itinerary-for-short_25.html
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| The Christmas Tree at the Seoul City Hall Square. |
7. Other Tourist Spots around Deoksugung
- Seoul City Hall : The Square is famous. In winter season they open the ice-rink, and the christmas tree is already set there now.
- Seoul Museum of Art : It is right by Deoksugung and has many beautiful photo spots with early modern styled structures.
- Seoul Anglican Cathedral of St. Mary & St. Nicholas : This is another historical place. This church was built in 1926, during Japanese occupation. It was designated as a tangible cultural property by Korean government.
- Jeongdong Theater : It was built on the site where Wongaksa, the Korean first modern theater used to be. So it has the early modern style of 1900s.
- Gyeonghuigung(경희궁) : Another royal palace in Seoul. Between Deoksugung and Gyeonghuigung is Jeondonggil. After touring Deoksugung, you can walk to Gyeonghuigung sightseeing Jeongdonggil, and then move to Gwangjwamun or Jongro by walk.
Written and posted by Jamie